For some, surfing is a serious sport, while for others, it’s a way to unwind and enjoy the sun. However, beyond its casual association with fun, surfing boasts a profound history that many might not be aware of. The origins of what we now call surfing can be traced back to the Polynesian islands of the Pacific Ocean.
Historical accounts reveal that wave riding was practiced throughout the Polynesian Pacific, as well as in regions like West Africa and Peru. However, it was in the Hawaiian archipelago that surfing truly evolved, becoming well-documented and persisting over time. For the Hawaiian people, surfing was not merely a recreational activity but held deep spiritual and social significance.
In Hawaiian society, nearly every aspect of surfing was governed by a set of rules and taboos known as kapu. Hawaiians made offerings when selecting trees for carving surfboards, prayed for waves with the guidance of a kahuna (expert priest), and expressed gratitude after surviving challenging wipeouts. Certain surf breaks were exclusively reserved for the elite, highlighting the sport’s societal importance.
Despite its spiritual aspects, surfing was also a competitive endeavor. Surfers would compete and place wagers on who could ride the farthest, the fastest, or catch the biggest wave with superior skill. Success in these competitions granted individuals respect, social status, and even romantic success. Although later dubbed the “sport of kings,” surfing was enjoyed by Hawaiian men and women of all ages and social classes.
Hawaiians crafted surfboards from koa, breadfruit, or wiliwili trees. Many rode alaia boards, which were thin, midsized, and somewhat resembled today’s shortboards. Others used paipo boards, short and round-nosed, typically ridden while lying on one’s stomach. Only chieftains were permitted to ride the massive olo boards, which were twice as long as modern longboards. Unlike most contemporary surfboards, these boards were finless, requiring surfers to use their hands or feet to steer.
The exact origins of wave sliding remain unclear, but it was already a centuries-old practice in Polynesia by the time it was described in 1777 by William Anderson, a surgeon on Captain Cook’s ship “Resolution.” While Anderson was captivated by the sport, American Christian missionaries who arrived in Hawaii later viewed surfing as sinful and discouraged it, along with other native cultural practices.
The greatest threat to surfing, however, was the threat to the Hawaiian people themselves. By 1890, diseases introduced by Europeans and Americans had devastated the native population, reducing it to fewer than 40,000 from a pre-contact population that may have exceeded 800,000. Concurrently, foreign influence grew, with white settlers overthrowing the native monarchy in 1893, and the U.S. annexing the islands five years later.
The end of Hawaii’s independence coincided with a native-led revival of surfing, which was soon exploited by American colonizers. Some Hawaiians took surfing overseas, with George Freeth, known as the “Hawaiian Wonder,” traveling to the west coast in 1907 to give surfing demonstrations in southern California. In 1914, Olympic swimmer Duke Kahanamoku brought surfing to Australia and New Zealand, captivating audiences with his skill.
Shortly before Freeth’s journey to California, a South Carolinian named Alexander Hume Ford moved to Hawaii. After learning to surf, he became a fervent advocate for the sport. However, Ford’s motivations were not entirely pure; he aimed to attract white Americans to Hawaii, first as tourists and then as residents, to counterbalance the non-white majority of natives and Asian workers. Despite his demographic ambitions failing, Ford’s promotion of surfing was a resounding success.
Today, surfing is a multi-billion dollar global industry, with tens of millions of enthusiasts worldwide. Although relatively few surfers are aware of the once-crucial wave chants or board carving rituals, Hawaiians continue to preserve these traditions, ensuring they are not lost to history’s waves.
Research the key events in the history of surfing from its Polynesian origins to its global expansion. Create a timeline that includes at least 10 significant events. Use images and brief descriptions to make your timeline visually appealing and informative.
Imagine you are a Hawaiian chieftain or a modern surfer. Design a surfboard that reflects your status and style. Draw your design on paper or using a digital tool, and write a short paragraph explaining the materials you would use and the significance of your design.
In groups, role-play a traditional Hawaiian surfing competition. Assign roles such as surfers, judges, and spectators. Create rules for the competition based on historical practices and perform a mock competition. Discuss how the competition reflects Hawaiian culture and values.
Imagine you are a surfer from a different era (Polynesian, Hawaiian, or early 20th century). Write a diary entry describing a day in your life, focusing on your surfing experiences, the challenges you face, and the cultural significance of surfing in your community.
Find a local surfer or someone who has experience with surfing. Prepare a list of questions about their experiences, the evolution of surfboards, and the cultural aspects of surfing. Conduct an interview and present your findings to the class, highlighting any connections to the historical aspects discussed in the article.
Surfing – The sport of riding on the crest of waves in the ocean using a surfboard. – Surfing is a popular activity in many coastal areas, where people enjoy riding the waves.
Polynesian – Relating to the islands in the central and southern Pacific Ocean, including Hawaii, Samoa, and Tahiti. – The Polynesian people have a rich history of navigation and exploration across the Pacific Ocean.
Hawaiian – Relating to the culture, people, or language of Hawaii, an island state in the United States. – Hawaiian culture is known for its beautiful music, hula dancing, and traditional luaus.
Culture – The beliefs, customs, arts, and social institutions of a particular group of people. – The culture of ancient Egypt included impressive pyramids and unique writing systems.
History – The study of past events, particularly in human affairs. – Learning about history helps us understand how past events shape our present and future.
Waves – Large bodies of water that rise and fall, often creating a surface suitable for surfing. – The waves at the beach can be perfect for surfing on sunny days.
Boards – Flat pieces of material, such as wood or fiberglass, used for surfing. – Surfboards come in various shapes and sizes, designed for different types of waves.
Competition – A contest between individuals or teams to determine who is the best at a particular skill or activity. – The surfing competition attracted many talented surfers from around the world.
Society – A group of individuals living together in a community, sharing customs and laws. – Society plays a crucial role in shaping our values and behaviors.
Traditions – Customs or beliefs that are passed down from generation to generation. – Many families celebrate their traditions during holidays, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas.
