Coffin bread is a unique dish that was invented in 1959 by ShuLu Yi, a tall man known for his distinctive eyebrows. He had a food stand in Tainan, a city in southern Taiwan, where he began selling a chowder made with chicken liver and squid, all encased in deep-fried toast. Customers thought the dish looked like a coffin, and that’s how it got its unusual name. Despite its name, coffin bread is not as spooky as it sounds—unless you’re a squid or a chicken liver!
Hi, I’m Justin Dodd, and welcome to Food History. Coffin bread might have an odd name, but it’s similar to something you might find at a place like Panera Bread. To understand this dish, we need to explore a bit of history, including the Chinese Civil War, international diplomacy, and the science of frying, which makes food delicious and crispy.
The main ingredient in coffin bread is wheat, which was not always common in Taiwan. Traditionally, rice was the main staple, along with sweet potatoes. Wheat didn’t grow well on the island and was mostly imported. Before the mid-20th century, wheat-based foods in Taiwan were rare and considered a luxury.
In the 1900s, wheat started arriving in Taiwan in larger quantities. In 1954, during the Cold War, the United States, under President Dwight Eisenhower, launched a food aid program that included wheat. This program, later called the Food for Peace program by President John F. Kennedy, aimed to help developing countries through food aid rather than military action. Taiwan, in conflict with communist China, became a natural partner in this program.
In 1949, Jiang Kai-shek moved his nationalist government to Taiwan, while the Chinese government took control of the mainland. Tensions between the two regions remained high. For the Taiwanese, wheat symbolized support from the United States, and they were eager to make use of it. However, they had little experience with wheat, so a large marketing campaign was launched. This included cooking demonstrations and sending students to the American Institute of Baking to learn how to bake bread and cakes.
Over time, wheat became more popular in Taiwan. Wheat milling companies, pastry schools, and baking competitions emerged, leading to a new generation of talented bakers. By the 1960s, bakeries were opening across Taiwan, offering soft milk breads with local toppings like pork floss and scallions.
Some refugees who came with Jiang Kai-shek’s government played a crucial role in promoting wheat. Those from northern China were familiar with wheat and used it to make traditional foods like dumplings and noodles. This led to a distinct Taiwanese culture around wheat flour, paving the way for Shu and his coffin bread.
Shu grew up during a time when Western culture was becoming popular in Taiwan, influenced by U.S. soldiers stationed there. He wanted to create a fusion dish that combined Eastern and Western cuisine, using chicken liver, a luxurious ingredient. He made a milk-based chowder to carry the liver, thickened it with starch, and encased it in deep-fried toast.
Deep frying was not only appealing but also necessary for the dish’s structure. Frying dries the outside while keeping the inside moist, allowing the chowder to stay in place without making the toast soggy. The result is a dish that tastes like chicken pot pie but is more like a San Francisco bread bowl in structure.
The name “coffin bread” came from a customer, an archaeology professor, who commented on its shape. The novelty of coffin bread made it very popular, becoming a main attraction at Sakuriba, the food center in Tainan where Shu had his stall.
Sakuriba itself has a rich history, originally a fish farm that became an urban center during the Japanese colonial era. It was a hotspot for the garment industry and the largest wholesale clothing market in Tainan. However, by the 1990s, it began to decline due to fires that damaged many businesses.
Coffin bread’s popularity changed over time. As chicken liver chowder became less fashionable, seafood and other fillings became more common. Today, you’re more likely to find coffin bread filled with diced vegetables and chicken breast, though many variations exist. Shu’s original restaurant still stands at Sakuriba Market, but it seems to have lost some of its former glory, with faded photos of Shu and notable guests on the walls.
While coffin bread is now considered a bit retro in Taiwan, it can still be found in some night markets in the south. Though it may not be as exciting as when it first appeared, those who remember it from the 60s and 70s look back on it fondly. For new cooks, coffin bread is a tasty way to connect with the past.
Thanks for joining us on Food History! This episode was written by Clarissa Wei, a cookbook author based in Taiwan. Her upcoming cookbook, “Made in Taiwan,” includes a recipe for coffin bread. If you’re interested in pre-ordering it, check the link in the description below. Don’t forget to subscribe to catch future episodes. See you next time!
Gather your ingredients and try making your own version of coffin bread at home. Experiment with different fillings, such as chicken, seafood, or vegetables. Share your creation with the class and discuss how your version compares to the traditional dish.
Conduct research on the history of wheat in Taiwan, focusing on its introduction and growing popularity. Create a timeline that highlights key events and share it with your classmates. Discuss how international relations influenced the availability of wheat.
Investigate the science behind deep frying and why it is used in making coffin bread. Conduct a simple experiment to observe how frying affects the texture and moisture of food. Present your findings to the class, explaining the role of frying in the dish’s structure.
Examine how cultural exchanges and historical events have influenced Taiwanese cuisine, using coffin bread as a case study. Write a short essay or create a presentation that explores these influences and share it with your peers.
Organize a tasting event where you and your classmates can sample different versions of coffin bread. Invite family members or other students to join. Discuss the flavors and textures of each version and vote on your favorite.
Here’s a sanitized version of the provided YouTube transcript:
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Coffin bread was invented in 1959 by ShuLu Yi, a tall man with distinctive eyebrows. He had a stand at a food center in Tainan, southern Taiwan, where he started selling a chowder made with chicken liver and squid encased in deep-fried toast. Customers remarked that the creation reminded them of a coffin, and a new dish was born. Today, we’re discussing the story of coffin bread, a dish that is not nearly as morbid as its name suggests—unless you’re a squid or a chicken liver, I suppose.
Hi, I’m Justin Dodd, and welcome to Food History. Coffin bread has an unusual name, but it’s actually not so different from something you might find at Panera Bread. To tell the story of this unique and nostalgic dish, we need to touch on the Chinese Civil War, international diplomacy, and the food science that makes frying such an appealing choice for chefs worldwide.
The foundation of coffin bread is, well, bread. In this case, that means wheat, which is still a relatively new ingredient in Taiwan. Historically, rice was the primary carbohydrate of choice in Taiwan for generations, and sweet potatoes were also commonly cultivated. Wheat, on the other hand, does not grow well on the island and generally only appeared as an import. The few wheat dishes that existed in Taiwanese cuisine up until the mid-20th century were mostly noodle-based, consumed in small portions and considered luxurious treats.
Wheat-based foods began arriving on the island in large quantities in the 1900s. In 1954, the Dwight Eisenhower Administration initiated a food aid program during the Cold War, providing American aid to developing countries, including wheat. This initiative, later known as the Food for Peace program under President John F. Kennedy, was seen as a better tool for diplomacy than military action. Taiwan was a natural partner in this program, given its conflict with communist China.
In 1949, Jiang Kai-shek moved his nationalist government to Taiwan, while the Chinese government solidified its power on the mainland. Tensions between the two countries continued to simmer. For the Taiwanese, wheat symbolized solidarity from the United States, and they were excited about the support. However, the people of Taiwan had little experience working with wheat. To make good use of the American gift, a massive marketing campaign was launched, including cooking demonstrations and plans to send students to the American Institute of Baking to learn how to bake bread and cakes.
It took some time for wheat to gain traction in Taiwan. Eventually, wheat milling companies, pastry schools, and baking competitions emerged, fostering a talented group of bakers. Bakeries began to pop up across Taiwan in the 1960s, producing soft milk breads with distinctly local toppings like pork floss and scallions.
Some refugees who came with Jiang Kai-shek’s government played an important role in promoting wheat. Those from northern China had experience with the ingredient and began using it to make traditional foods like dumplings and noodles. Over time, a distinct Taiwanese culture around wheat flour emerged, leading us back to Shu and his coffin bread.
Shu came of age during a time when Western culture was becoming popular in Taiwan, influenced by U.S. soldiers stationed on the island. He wanted to create a fusion dish that celebrated the convergence of Eastern and Western cuisine, specifically highlighting chicken liver, which was considered a luxurious ingredient. He made a milk-based chowder to carry the liver, thickened it with starch, and encased it all in deep-fried toast.
Deep frying not only added audience appeal but was also structurally necessary. The frying process effectively dries the ingredient out while maintaining moisture inside, allowing the chowder to stay put without compromising the structure of the toast. The result is a dish that tastes quite similar to chicken pot pie but is structurally more akin to a San Francisco bread bowl.
The dish got its name from a customer, an archaeology professor, who made an offhand comment about its shape. The novelty of coffin bread paid off; it became wildly popular and was one of the main attractions at Sakuriba, the food center in Tainan where Shu had his stall.
Sakuriba has its own rich history, originally a fish farm that transformed into an urban center during the Japanese colonial era. It became a hotspot for the garment industry and the largest wholesale clothing market in Tainan. However, by the 1990s, it began to decline due to a series of fires that damaged many businesses.
Coffin bread followed a similar trajectory. As chicken liver chowder fell out of fashion, seafood became a popular alternative. Today, you’re more likely to find coffin bread filled with finely diced vegetables and chicken breast, although variations are common. Shu’s original restaurant is still at Sakuriba Market, but it seems to be past its prime, with faded photographs of Shu and distinguished guests adorning the walls.
Coffin bread is now considered a bit retro or outdated in Taiwan, though it can still be found in some night markets in southern Taiwan. While it may not be as exciting as when it was first introduced, those who remember it from the 60s and 70s recall it fondly. For a new generation of cooks, the dish serves as a nod to the past and a tasty way to enjoy a meal.
Thanks for watching Food History! This episode was written by Clarissa Wei, a cookbook author based in Taiwan. Her upcoming cookbook is titled “Made in Taiwan,” which includes a recipe for coffin bread. If you’re interested in pre-ordering it, check the link in the description below. Make sure to subscribe here to catch future episodes. We’ll see you next time!
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This version maintains the essence of the original transcript while removing any informal language and ensuring clarity.
Coffin – A box or container in which a dead body is placed for burial or cremation. – In ancient Egypt, coffins were often elaborately decorated to honor the deceased and ensure safe passage to the afterlife.
Bread – A staple food made from flour, water, and usually yeast, mixed together and baked. – Bread has been a crucial part of human diets for thousands of years, with different cultures developing their own unique recipes and styles.
Wheat – A cereal grain that is a staple food in many parts of the world, used to make flour for bread, pasta, and other foods. – The domestication of wheat was a significant development in human history, leading to the establishment of settled agricultural societies.
Taiwan – An island nation in East Asia known for its rich history and diverse culinary traditions. – Taiwan’s history is reflected in its cuisine, which blends indigenous, Chinese, and Japanese influences.
History – The study of past events, particularly in human affairs. – Understanding the history of food helps us appreciate how cultural exchanges have shaped the meals we enjoy today.
Food – Any nutritious substance that people or animals eat or drink to maintain life and growth. – The study of food history reveals how different societies have adapted their diets to available resources and technological advancements.
Culture – The social behavior, norms, and practices that characterize a particular group or society. – Food is an integral part of culture, reflecting the values, traditions, and history of a community.
Refugees – People who are forced to leave their country in order to escape war, persecution, or natural disaster. – Refugees often bring their culinary traditions with them, enriching the food culture of their new homes.
Frying – A cooking method in which food is submerged in hot oil or fat. – Frying has been used throughout history to prepare a variety of foods, from ancient Roman fritters to modern-day French fries.
Cuisine – A style or method of cooking, especially as characteristic of a particular country, region, or establishment. – French cuisine is renowned for its emphasis on technique and high-quality ingredients, influencing chefs around the world.
